Soil scientists use a tool called the USDA Soil Texture Triangle. This triangle has three sides. One side is for sand. One side is for silt. One side is for clay. A scientist takes dirt in her hand. She feels the dirt. She rubs the dirt between her fingers. She decides if the dirt is gritty or smooth.
The Abstraction of Reality
She looks at the triangle. She finds a point on the triangle where the three sides meet. She gives the dirt a name. She calls the dirt “sandy loam” or “silty clay.” The dirt is now a name. But the dirt in her hand is still dirt. The dirt has rocks in it. The dirt has water in it. The dirt has roots in it. The triangle does not show the rocks. The triangle does not show the roots.
The Seven Cartoons of Manhood
Men who lose their hair use a similar tool. This tool is called the Hamilton-Norwood scale. This scale has seven stages. The stages are shown as drawings. These drawings are cartoons of men. The cartoons have no faces. The cartoons have only hair. Some cartoons have a lot of hair. Some cartoons have no hair.
Most men see these cartoons on a screen. The screen is bright. The man looks at the screen. The man looks at the cartoons. He looks in a mirror. He looks at his own head. He tries to find himself in the cartoons.
The man sees seven heads in a row. He sees head number two. He sees head number three. He feels his forehead. He feels the place where his hair ends. He thinks he is a number three. Then he looks again. He thinks he might be a number four. He is not a three. He is not a four. He is a man who is losing his hair in a way that is not on the chart.
Forty Thousand Decisions
40,000
Men trying to fit their lives into a drawing from
Forty thousand men every year look at these seven cartoons. They look at the cartoons and they make a choice. They click a button. They say “I am a number four.” This is a human statistic. It means that forty thousand men are trying to fit their lives into a drawing made by a doctor in .
When you give a man a chart, the man will try to fit into the chart. He will ignore the parts of his head that do not match the drawing. He will choose the drawing that looks most like him. He will then believe he is that drawing.
The Curator’s Dilemma
I curate data for a living. My name is Anna M.-L. I look at images and I give them labels. I tell a computer what a dog looks like. I tell a computer what a tree looks like. If I see a photo of a dog that looks like a wolf, I must choose. I cannot tell the computer the dog is both. I must pick one label. This is how data works. It is how the hair loss chart works. It forces a choice where there is no choice.
Data Label
Binary, Static, Forced choice.
Memory
Nuanced, Blurred, Reality.
I recently deleted three years of photos from my phone. I did this by accident. I was trying to clear space. I pressed a button. The photos were gone. I lost my records of the years , , and . I do not have a photo of my face from those years. I only have my memory.
My memory is not a data set. My memory does not have labels. When I think of those years, I do not see a chart. I see a blurred version of myself. This is what happens when the record is gone. The hair loss chart is a record that was never yours. It was made for doctors.
A Code for Specialists
James Hamilton made the first version of the chart in . He was a doctor. He wanted a way to talk to other doctors. If a doctor in New York talked to a doctor in London, they needed a common language. They could say “The patient is a stage four.” Then both doctors knew what that meant. The chart was a shorthand. It was a code for specialists. It was not a tool for the patient.
In , a doctor named O’Tar Norwood changed the chart. He added more stages. He made the chart the standard. Now the chart is everywhere. It is on every website. It is in every advertisement. Marketing companies took the chart from the doctors. They gave the chart to the public. They told the public to self-diagnose. This was a category error.
A man sits in his room. He looks at the seven heads. He sees that head number three has a receding temple. He sees that head number four has a thinning crown. His own head has both. But his temples are deeper than the drawing. His crown is not as thin as the drawing.
He feels a sense of frustration. The chart says he must be one or the other. The chart has no space for the man who is between the cartoons. The man feels like he is failing the test. But the test is just a drawing.
The Problem of Produced Reality
The categories start to produce the reality. This is a problem with all labels. When we give people a list of seven heads, they begin to describe themselves as those heads. They stop saying “My hair is thin at the front.” They start saying “I am a Norwood Three.” They take a complicated process of biology and they turn it into a single digit.
They forget that the hair is still growing and falling in a unique way. They forget that their scalp is a piece of skin, not a coordinate on a graph.
Inside the Brick and Mortar
When a man goes to 134 Harley Street, he enters a building. The building is made of brick. The building is old. Inside the building, there is a clinic. The clinic is Westminster Medical Group®. In this clinic, there is a table. A man sits on one side of the table. A doctor sits on the other side.
This doctor is a surgeon. The surgeon is registered with the GMC. The surgeon does not just look at a chart. The surgeon looks at the man. The surgeon looks at the hair. The surgeon looks at the skin of the scalp. The surgeon looks at the back of the head.
Clinical Location
134 Harley Street, London – Westminster Medical Group®
Beyond the Donor Area
The donor area is where the hair is still thick. The chart does not talk about the donor area. The chart only talks about the loss. But the surgeon needs to know about the hair that remains. The surgeon looks at the density of the hair. The surgeon looks at the angle of the hair.
The surgeon builds a plan. The plan is for this man. It is not a plan for a “Number Four.” It is a plan for a person who has a specific amount of hair to move. A specialist performing a hair transplant uk understands that the scalp is a three-dimensional object.
The chart is two-dimensional. The chart cannot show the way the light hits the hair. The chart cannot show the way the hair will look in five years.
Human Decisions, Not Diagrams
The man asks the surgeon which number he is. The surgeon might give him a number. But the surgeon will also explain why the number does not matter. The number does not tell the surgeon where to put the grafts. The number does not tell the surgeon how many hairs are in each graft.
Some grafts have one hair. Some grafts have three hairs. The surgeon must decide where to put the single hairs. He must decide where to put the triple hairs. This is a job for a human, not a diagram.
The man looks in the mirror at the clinic. The light is clear. The mirror is clean. He sees his hair. He sees the skin where the hair used to be. He stops looking for the cartoon head. He starts looking at his own face. He sees that his loss is a process. It is a moving thing. It is not a static image on a screen.
Through the Wall
The chart is a wall. The man has been staring at the wall. He has been trying to find a door in the wall. But the door is not in the chart. The door is in the consultation. The door is in the physical reality of the surgery. Surgery is a literal act. It involves a hand holding a tool. It involves a scalp. It involves a graft. There are no cartoons in the operating room. There is only the hair and the skin.
We like to think we can be categorized. If we have a name for our problem, we think we have a solution for our problem. But the name is just a word. The chart is just a drawing. The reality of hair restoration is more complex than a row of seven heads. It is as complex as the dirt in the soil scientist’s hand.
It is as complex as the three years of photos I lost. You cannot get those photos back by looking at a chart of other people’s faces. You can only look at what is left and make a plan for what comes next.
Walking the Ground
The man leaves the clinic. He walks down Harley Street. He sees other men. He looks at their hair. He does not see numbers anymore. He sees individuals. He sees some men with thick hair. He sees some men with thin hair. He sees that every man has a different line on his forehead.
He realizes that the chart was a lie told for convenience. He feels better. He knows that his head is his own. It does not belong to James Hamilton or O’Tar Norwood. It belongs to him and the surgeon who will work on it.
The chart shows a head but the chart does not show the skin of the man.
The man goes home. He looks at the screen one last time. He sees the seven cartoons. He realizes they are just ink and pixels. They are not his destiny. He closes the laptop. He touches his own hair. He is ready to begin.
The process is not a cartoon. The process is real. It is a matter of grafts and growth. It is a matter of time. He has time. He has a plan. He is no longer a number. He is a patient. He is a person.
The scalp is a map, but you have to walk the ground to know where you are going. He is walking now. He is not looking at the triangle anymore. He is feeling the dirt. He is feeling the hair. He is present in his own life.
The chart is behind him. The surgeon is ahead of him. The work will begin soon. It is a good thing to be real. It is a good thing to be more than a drawing. It is a good thing to have a face again.